“Growing up in Lagos, I have this memory of seeing lonely fishermen, spending time alone on their boats,” Orange Culture designer Adebayo Oke-Lawal told Skattie following his show at the recent SA Menswear Week.
Ade added that he wanted to capture the vulnerability he imagines exists in those lonely conversations the fishermen have as they go about their days, by using soft fabric- mesh, cashmere, cotton- in interpreting his vision for Orange Culture’s SS15 collection. The flowers the models often came out clutching, even between their teeth as the case was during the final walk-through, added to the romantic notion that emanated from the vulnerable solitude of Ade’s fisherman.
The palette was quite varied- camel, claret tones, purple, black- but anchored by the recurring check-like print and the pleats, often on pants, but also found here and there, peeking out of a sleeve or shirt hem. The silhouttes were a mix of traditional Nigerian silhouttes- loose and often drapey- with a contemporary twist, making the whole collection look modern without overtly caving in to the often inevitable Euro centricity that is so prevalent in African fashion.
The same collection was showcased two weeks earlier at Pitti Uomo but the SA Fashion Week showcase is where Ade told the full story of his lonely fisherman, having only been able to fit in a few looks into the Pitti Uomo schedule.
The brand sent us their lookbook ahead of SAMW, which we’ve shared before, but not entirely. We thought it would be great to share it alongside images from what was one of our favourite shows of the season at SA Menswear Week.
By Sandiso Ngubane
Images: Orange Culture (supplied)